Tim Atkin MW: Drink's unspoken upsides

Patrick McGovern was sometimes described as the Indiana Jones of wine, but this always struck me as wide of the mark. It was hard to imagine him wielding a bullwhip, let alone fighting with ex-Nazis. McGovern’s presence was gentle, modest and avuncular. With his big beard and congenial manner, he was someone I always enjoyed meeting at international conferences. The last time I saw him, he signed a copy of his book, Ancient Wine: The Search for the Origins of Viniculture, with a three-word dedication: In Vino Veritas!